The first structure is a small barn, measuring 95mm x 88mm externally that still allows a 60mm round base to fit inside. The overall height will be 90mm. The main walls will have a shallow log base, just three logs high, and the rest of the cladding will be vertical timber in poor repair, with some big holes in a couple of places. The gabled ends will all be timber cladded and the roof will be timber. I also want one of the main doors to be ajar.
So the first step is to cut the 3mm MDF pieces.
Then the pieces were the assembled into basic shapes.
After the base level logs (bamboo skewers) were glued all around the structure, the main door frame was built, the closed main door was fitted and the cladding to the right of the door was glued on. Both the door and the cladding are matchsticks, some of which were split lengthwise to give some irregular timber thicknesses. A bit of carving has created gaps in the cladding.
The open door was then fitted, with the area behind the door pre-painted black to create depth. I was pleased to find a distorted matchstick that has been fixed to the left of the open door completing the cladding on this face.
On the side wall to the right of the main door I started to create a more damaged wall splitting and deliberately breaking a number of matchsticks.
And the near finished side...just need the ends cut flush when the glue is good and dry.
The opposite side has a side door at the far end from the main doors and a large, roughly patched hole in the middle of the wall.
The far end of the barn is most intact wall.
And here is base with all the matchstick ends trimmed flush, ready for painting.
For the roof I went for a slightly more ornate look on the gables...I figure that maybe the carpenter was in a creative mood the day he worked on this. The front end has large opening in the hay loft which will have a couple of doors affixed.
Next a cardboard layer is glued in place.
On top of the cardboard the roof timbers are glued, the doors were glued on the hay loft and the whole roof surface was painted with a coat of PVA glue to give extra hold on the matchsticks.
Here then is the whole structure ready for painting.
The first step in painting is to spray the whole model matt black, touching up any missed areas with the brush.
Next Burnt Umber is dry-brushed over the black.
Then a mix of Burnt Sienna, Citadel Scarag Brown and a splash of yellow.
Then a lighter tone of the same mix.
Then an even lighter tone.
Finally a light dusting of bone white.
The second building is a much simpler structure, just an open sided storage shed, that is filled with clutter.
The next step, and another post, will be to let it snow...
Excellent work
ReplyDeleteThanks Neil. It has been an interesting build.
DeleteBeautiful work as usual Mark. I also like your paint recipe for the wood and might give that a go as I am finding Vallejo can be a bit harder to drybrush with.
ReplyDeleteUsually for scenic items I use cheap artist acrylics - Reeves in most cases. It is quite thick so it has good pigment density and can be thinned either water or a medium. This time I used the burnt umber and burnt sienna from the Golden artist range, supplemented by the citadel colours. In wanted the timber to have an aged look with real depth to make a rather plain structure into something of interest.
DeleteLovely little models and a good tutorial, both buildings look great and should look the part on the table.
ReplyDeleteThanks Donnie. They are shaping up rather well. I am about a third of the way through the 'snowing' process, so the whole model should be done in a day or so.
DeleteLots of great ideas and some wonderful in progress photos. It's always a treat to see what you are doing.
ReplyDeleteThanks Joe, this is an interesting project.
DeleteI always love seeing how other people go about scratch building stuff:). Even though I know how to do it having being a modelmaker for 30+ years, I still find nice ideas, tips etc, as you never stop learning!
ReplyDeleteSuperb as always Mark - funnily enough, I bought a pack of kebab skewers a couple of weeks ago with exactly the same idea in mind re Russian log buildings - I got a few cut to size and stuck to the cardboard walls of a building, but the muse wasnt with me and I stopped about 10% of the way through the first building. I am definitely going to copy all your ideas here!
ReplyDeleteThe logs should really be notched, but it's too hard to do on the skewers. On some of the buildings coming up there will be some notched log houses, using different materials.
DeleteI love it! and thanks for the detailed walked through. I'm gonna scratch build my first model building shortly so it was very on topic for me. 😁
ReplyDeleteQuestion: why did you use 3mm for the shell and not foamcore or anything else?
Thanks Stew. I used the MDF for two reasons: to make them more 'wargamer proof' and to avoid warping that can occur when the glue contracts when the cladding is glued on with PVA . Also the roof is fitted into the base with a plug and the MDF gives a more robust fit.
DeleteReally enjoyed seeing your build and paint process on this, especially reading your paint recipe for the worn wood colours. I recently came into some 3D printed East Front log buildings and this will help me immensely!
ReplyDeleteOne thing I didn't do for this one (because it is going to be partially covered with snow) is to put water stains on the wood. It is easily done with either black wash or thinned black paint.
DeleteSplendid scratch built buildings, I really like your builds, there is enough detail to catch you without too much that you get bogged down, a sweet spot for wargame modeling I think!
ReplyDeleteBest Iain
Thanks Iain. I am not a precision worker like some so that rustic style suits me.
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